La Halle De Rive AKA Foodie Heaven

The must-visit foodie destination of Geneva

From the moment the doors glide open, you’re greeted with a wondrous row of never ending display cases overflowing with delicious produce. There’s the cheese counter packed to the brim with more dairy goodness than you could taste in a lifetime, the sweet treats that cause a spike in blood sugar by merely looking at them and the savoury nibbles that immediately invoke images of summer picnics. Welcome to La Halle de Rive.

Food plays a central role in Swiss life and there is no better place than here to indulge your tastebuds and burn a hole in your wallet. The only thing I can liken it to, in terms of food porn, is the food hall at Harrods but make no mistake, you won’t find hoards of tourists taking snaps for their Instagram but regular Genèvoise popping in to buy their dinner. This is what makes La Halle special. It’s not a gimmick or a show, it’s an embodiment of Swiss values where quality is key and supermarkets take a back seat. In many parts of the world, we have become so attached to the convenience of buying all our food in one place that we have lost touch with the farms and indeed the produce itself. La Halle transports you back to a world before Sainsbury’s and Waitrose.

More cheese than you could eat in a lifetime!

Many years ago, I heard a program on BBC Radio 4 in which they interviewed British primary school children about where food comes from. One child thought that eggs grew in the ground and another believed potatoes grew on trees! How did we become so disconnected? When did we stop teaching children about what they put in their bodies? I can only hope that the situation has changed in the past decade but a quick stroll through La Halle is enough to ignite the foodie in anyone!

In one of my first visits to La Halle, I was struck by the sheer variety of meats available. Rabbit, veal, guinea fowl, poussin etc. and without a hormone or a battery farm chicken in sight. Unlike in the supermarkets, where great lengths are gone to in order to remove anything that resembles an animal; in La Halle there is no escaping the fact that these were once living creatures. It’s not as in your face as markets in the Middle East for example but it makes you more appreciative of the food on our plates. I have always believed that understanding where food comes from is important and if we are to reduce our meat intake for the sake of the planet it is essential.

Of course, sustainable purchasing comes at a price. La Halle de Rive is not only an embodiment of Swiss culture but also a reflection of the incredibly high cost of living in Geneva. It’s probably no bad thing that you can’t fill a trolley as you go along and pay at the end because you’d end up with an eye-watering bill that even Harrods would struggle to compete with! A few months ago, I bought a poulet de Bresse in La Halle that cost close to 50 francs! Poulet de Bresse, protected by its very own appellation, is supposed to be the best chicken in the world and I have to say; it didn’t disappoint!

If you’re not looking for food to cook at home and don’t fancy taking out a second mortgage, there are plenty of affordable ready to eat options that will delight any gastronome. Pâté en Croûte, a childhood favourite of mine, is a picnic essential and of course there is a bountiful selection of delicious patisseries. It may not be a typical tourist destination (and I wouldn’t want it to be!), but it should be on the list of anyone wanting to see the ‘real’ Geneva.

Longeole Genèvoise - A local sausage spiced with fennel (delicious!)

If you find yourself overwhelmed by the wonders of La Halle and need to take a pause then I highly recommend you stop off for a drink or a bite to eat at Bistrot des Halles. Located, in the heart of the market, this little bistro is buzzing with a glorious mix of stall holders enjoying a midday beer and suited businessmen enjoying a leisurely lunch. As well as the eclectic and bubbly atmosphere, what I love about Le Bistrot are the delightful Swiss delicacies that go way beyond fondue and rösti. In spite of growing up in Switzerland, there are dishes here that I had never even heard of until recently and have struggled to find elsewhere in Geneva. Longeole, a beef and pork sausage spiced with fennel is my go-to dish! If you’re not keen on lunch, simply grab a stool, order a glass of Swiss wine and you might, even for just a second, feel like a local.